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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.