Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.